PegasusMaiden's Costume Answer Corner

[pegasusmaiden]

In the past year as a cosplayer an costumer I have come across and array of very useful questions for old and new cosplayers. I will list the questions I have been asked here and post the reply I gave them. The answers I provide are by no means the only way to do things they are just methods that I found useful or convinent. If you have something to add to my suggestions you may contact me or post here.

I welcome all comments and I will keep this updated when I happen to find old emails I sent out to questions and questions are newly answered.

Nancy

[pegasusmaiden]

This is the most recent of questions I have recieved. The problem of finding a good fabric source is usually the first and foremost question for all beginners.

"gacktjob wrote:
what are some tips and where can you find good fabric? "


You find material pretty much anywhere you go. If you are looking for specialized fabric you would go to a fabric store/fashion fabric shop or wholesale. You can also find materials online.

Online shopping is easy and fast, plus hassle free. However, it has a downside as to you don't know the quality of the fabric until you recieve it. You will have to have prior knowledge about fabric before you start your search. I recommend you purchase from a store that has a good reputation or is a brandname store to be safe.

You can also find fabric if you list in classified on costume sites with specifics as to what you are looking for. Again this requires prior knowledge and know-how what fabric you are looking for. This means you need to know more than just the color of the fabric. It would be helpful you knew what type you want, at what weight, weave, stretch, width, yardage, etc.

If you have a fairly simple costume you can buy parts from real clothing stores and alter them or buy them a few sizes larger than yourself for cutting purposes.

Something that most people don't mention is you can also find fabric in your own linen closets. Like you mom's old white bed sheets can be used as test material for a costume or can be used for a real costume if it is the right color so don't write off your own home as a source. Of course before cutting up any home furnishing material ask if it is still use before you use it.

For pastel cotton you will find descent cotton sheets at any department stores but they can be pricey because they are good in quality.

thrifts stores are good, but I am not a fan of them because most of the things are too old to use or salvage for a new costume, but I do use the thrift stores for belts buckles, earings, ribbons, ties, mostly accesories items that would be used to embellish costumes. Or I would buy clothing there for the unique buttons, zippers, patterns, etc., again mostly acceorizing items.

You can find material almost in all the places you shop in. Just keep an eye open and ask yourself what can I do with this or that? It is best to plan for a costume weeks to months in advance because you can spend time browsing numerous places. Do not expect to find everything in one trip because usually you don't not even in specialized fabric stores.

Overall the best place to start is your home, then fabric stores, linen department of major shops, and you can end at thrift stores and garage sales.

[pegasusmaiden]

Sender:
How do you do? I am e-mailing you because I saw your post on the California Cosplay Times forum. I have some simple questions to ask you. But first, some background on me. I attended my first convention this year (Sakuracon in Seattle). I've never cosplayed before because I didn't know much about it, just what I'd read in mags like NewtypeUSA. I saw enough this year that i'm definately interested in trying something for next year's con. However, I was disappointed in the quality of most of the outfits I've seen. Yes, there are some very good ones as well, but for the most part, I didn't really like what I saw. Anyway, I'm just poking my nose around trying to get any info I can about cosplay because I really want my costume to look like it was made with dedication and great attention to detail. I have no applicable skills in this field, so unfortunately I wouldn't trust myself to do it.


MY REPLY:
I am assuming you feel I have enough knowledge in this area to give you some pointers. In that case I am flattered and will be happy to provide you with some insight. ^^
First of all I want to congratulate you for attending your first con. If you go to a few more you will find that there are different feels to each one. Sakura con has an edge of competitiveness and a quality of easy-going attendees that makes a good con for beginners. Large ones like AX are highly competitive and somewhat intimidating, but the costumes are exceptionally good because people are there to show their talent.

About commissions
It is always a good idea to plan ahead the costumes you want to have. The minimum requirement for time from any commissioners is 2 months. Anything less than that is consider extremely rush and you will be marked up 35%-50% because they will have to put other costumes on hold for yours and make special arrangements for finding materials in a short amount of time. To gurantee good quality give your commissioner 3-4 months. It seems like a lot of time but it really isn't because commissioners are usually already working on other costumes. So early notice is good and you pay the downpayment to reserve your spot for the year. Most seasoned commissioners are more of an artisan than an order taker that means they love what they create and will put in more effort than what they are actually paying. Stores on ebay are businesses so their quality is lacking compared to a commissioner.
I will also emphasize that material is very important to costume making. I refuse to make a costume with low quality material because it is a waste of my time to create something that won't last or will not represent the design accurately.
Do not be alarm if some estimates are out of your range because customers rarely provided enough information for a commissioner to accurately quote a price. Just a picture does not give us much to work with so we will give you a safe ball-park price to keep ourselves out of trouble. The ball-park price is usually 20-40% more than an actual price.
Things we like to know
1) Time permitted
2) budget (many commissioners are very friendly andn will work around a budget with creative thinking and use innovative techniques versus traditional form)
3) Will you provide material?
4) your size
5) expectational level (if you don't need it to be perfect let us know so will can create a simplified version to save time, in turn will save you money)

[pegasusmaiden]

this is a fun entry for shopers.

Today was Victoria Secrets semi-annual sale. It was suppose to be the highlight of my shopping trip today. The problem was this year Victoria Secrets selection was terrible, just awful both in style and in colors. It is almost as if the designers went color blind and lost all their sensiblities for design. I only bought 4 pieces of undergarment that includes a sport bra, a regular cotton strap bras, a simple black spandex bra with padding, and one swim top. No panties, they were all just hideously scary. The best find of today were the gift sets and the purses.
Later after Lunch (which was an ice-cream sundae with chocolate fudge, topped with whipped cream and almonds, plus a banana, and two cherries on top)
Jen and I headed over to Sephora to spend her $40 gift certificate. We were there for 2 hours, but we were good girls and we only spent in total $60. We found two brands we really like because the colors matches our skin tone plus it goes on "oh so smooth" no caking or overly heavy blotches. The first brand is "Bourjois" Jen bought the silver,black, and white eyeshadow set, and I got the pinkie blush. The eyeshadow has a very nice matted shine to it that compliments Jens eyes and skin tone. Jen has a yellow to peach undertone and she has deep set eyes. The white in the set help balance the shadow from her upper eyelid with her eyelid fold. The silver brushed across the center of the eyelid created a pretty shine and the black was great for the framing the eye. Then we meander towards the 50% off shelf of "Tony and Tina" for some body glitter, unfortunately they ran out of my top pick of translucent white with emerald shine, so I settled for the pink sparkles instead. Lastly Jen found a very very cool base powder. We were skeptical at first because it was a pastel yellow, but it really lessens the pink we get on our cheeks. It was great I also like it very much because it also smooths the skin. I personally prefer powder because concealers are so bad for my skin after every use I am gurantee to get a small pimple somewhere on my cheeks because it couldn't breath for the full day. >.< The brand of this powder was "Urban Decay" they also had some really cute lip gloss. I highly recommend this brand to anyone with light complexion and has a autumn or winter undertone.
Before we left we shifted over to Federicks of Hollywood to my surprise they have really toned down the kinky-ness and now has more main stream-like underwear. I bought a matching set bra and panties very comfortable and functional. ^^ This set is my favorite buy of the day. It is a deep violet with a tiny row of lace around the top edges and has matching satin bow with the undies. Totally cute! for the set the total was $18.
Finally before we headed out we saw a shoe sale. No resistence going into that store. They had these really cute platform doll shoes that I wanted but they were 2 sizes too big that is why they were on sale for $10 a pair. *cries then there was another pair of really cute sandals with embroidered flowers on it also too big. Not to mention the totally hot candy black sneaks for $15 also too big. So not fair! Size 5 and under is definitely discriminated. -_-

[pegasusmaiden]

Question from Customer:
I was wondering about obi commisioning with a special fabric, because I have a purchased accent fabric chosen for a Wa-Loli outfit, but I would love to have someone else make it for me >_< Interested in having me send you the fabric to make it? If so, how much would you need?

My Reply:
You need to measure out your waist line and add 16 inches to it for the length of the obi. Then I need a 2nd piece of fabric to go under the top fabric. Or you can cut two pieces of the same length from same fabric. For the bow I need two retangular pieces of 20x24 inches and tw strips of 6x12 inches.

If you are uncertain about cutting out the pieces yourself send me at least 2 yards of the material of your choice.

The cost for hourly is $30 total and $6 for interfacing, velcro, and wires if you can't provide those for me.

Please provide a self addressed envelope with postage for me to send the finished obi back to you. The postage should be the same as how much it takes for you to send the materials to me. Or you can include $3.85 in your payment to me so I can purchase shipping from my side.

I hope this was informational enough to help you out. I look forward to seeing your choice of fabric.

Nancy

Pictures of previous pretied obi's
http://www.californiacosplaytimes.com/c ... 13&pos=103

[brocas]

What is Wa-Loli?

[pegasusmaiden]

What is Wa-Loli?

A Wa-loli is a form of lolita. Lolita has branched out to numerous categories from the original form of lolita.

Wa-loli is a Japanese Yukata inspired style that combines the traditional lines of the Yukata with lolita design elements.

[pegasusmaiden]

This entry is in response to someone interested in participating in my lolita clothing line and web business.

Person Wrote:
I read your message on egl about your new line of Lolita clothes in the US.
In particular what kind of compensation designers would get
and what you would need in the way of designs from me, be that basic
sketches or something more complex.
Also I'd love any information you could give me about starting my own line
as this is something I have contemplated. however, at this time I doubt I
have the resources to do so, so working with you would be a wonderful
experience. Hope to hear from you soon.

P.S. I love your brand name. I've been trying to think what I would call
myself if I were to start a Lolita brand, but have come up with nothing that
is anywhere near as perfect and cute as yours. It's simple, sweet, and easy
to remember. I love it.


The designing process has 3 parts
1) You submit your primary illustrations to me either through online or through mail. I ask that the illustration be clear with 3 views: front, back, and side and any details the designer wishes the sample maker take notice, each illustration should fit in an 7x10'' frame. It also helps if there is a sample swatch of the fabric you have in mind. Also include a self addressed and postaged envelope for me to send the illustrations back to.
2) a.I will choose from your illustrations the design I want to use and pay you a negotiated rate for it. If you know how to make a pattern for the chosen illustration the rate of pay will be more.
3) The chosen design I will ask for you to make a flat for it if you do not know how to make patterns. You will be paid once the first samples are made and that the design works based on either your pattern and illustration.

You will be credited the desgin of the garment on the website and you can use my site as your part of your resume reference or portfolio.


Starting your own line:
1) requires a minimum of $500 USD for each garment piece to be produced. This amount covers for shippment, fabric, salary, and customs of finished samples of 6 pieces sent to America.
2) $1000 is needed to produce 25 pieces of the one garment design whether it is a dress or blouse, paniers, or skirts. For simpler designs the cost is less, but for average lolita designs it is around $1000.
Since these are shipped in from Asia you will need a retailers license import them and you will also need to pay customs on these garments.
3) If you do not know how to contact manufacturers in Hong Kong, Korea, or in China you will have to go through agents like me or other professional trading companies found in the US, prefrerably you can find one near the port cities like SF or LA.
4) If you are creating your own line to sell you will need about $5000 to start on your own, or you can find commission based partnerships to split the cost.

For me I have lowered my cost because I work with a retail company in Hong Kong so they take care most of the quality control costs for me. I split with them per 100 garments I take 30 of the finished products and market them here while they sell the other 70. So each of the designs that will be seen on my site will only have 100 in existence on the entire globe very much like how Btssb and AngelicPretty runs their business.

If you want to earn money on your line you can split the sample making cost with me and you can get entitlement to either one garment or half of the 6 garments or even the full sample depending on how much you want to invest. The logic is simple the more samples I order at once the lower my cost will be for shipping. So even if you use me as a trading company I benefit by saving shipping cost and you can have all 6 pieces of your garment design. The sample making price varies on styles sometimes it is cheaper if the design is simpler and has less details for for most lolita designs they are around $500. You will get a better idea once you see the samples I will have up next week.

It is not a bad deal for you to share in the sample cost with me because I already have the retailer's license and also the agencies to clear customs so you don't have to worry about those things. I also have insurance for my shippments. I only order samples to be made every season (every 3 months), at least that is my projected schedule.

I hope I have not boogled you with too much information.

Nancy

[pegasusmaiden]

Well it has been such a long time since I posted a tip here.

My newest suggestion for cosplayers looking for commissions is really know what you are looking for before approaching a commissioner.

I have come to a point in my commissions that I am selective to who I want to work with based on their intial emails to me.

I now have http://www.pegasusmaiden.com/cosplay to help me sort out orders. The website is great for your to submit a form that tells me what you want and what you expect so I can give you a comfortable price.

When cosplayers approach me with 6 costumes asking for pricing it is overwhelming and also costly on my time to do the research. I understand that everyone does shopping, but it really helps when you can narrow it down to 2 instead of half a dozen.

Budgeting is very important. Do not commit to a commission that you think is above your budget because that makes it difficult for the commission to fulfill your order if you can not make the last payment. It ends up with two unhappy individuals.

Cosplay is a luxury and a hobby I advise that everyone to take care of their personal needs and housing needs first before they consider getting a commission. There is plenty of time for fun and leisure, but prioritize your basic needs first before you spend your money.

Overall have fun with cosplay you will enjoy it more when the commission you want is not a hole in your wallet.